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Its depth of flavor, from different chile types, makes this recipe stand out.

It also has whole spices, unsweetened chocolate and dark beer that meld seamlessly into a brick-red sauce that naps the succulent meat.

You can make chili with beans; lamb or bison; venison, turkey or pork; with tomatoes or beer, with fresh chiles or dried, with chili powder or without. If you’re cooking with meat, look for a cut high in fat and flavor.

The meat can be cut into large chunks, or, more traditionally, thin slices, especially if you are using a tougher cut than chuck. If you have masa harina, the corn flour used to make tortillas, that will make the gravy even thicker, but it is not necessary.

Like many vigorously spiced dishes, this one tastes even better a day or two after it is made and will hold its flavor well for at least a week. As with gumbo and beef stew, chili is a dish that benefits mightily from an overnight “cure” in the refrigerator.

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